The mountain has been Calling so i have been away. Two weeks ago I went to Rare for skiing. The conditions has been so-so, the expectation was low. But a great work in the slopes.

Manchester morning early and alone in the slopes of Are.

So a couple of real nice days in Are was good.

Then the last week, we went to Rjukan in Norway for Ice-Climbing.

Rjukan in Norway, a real paradise for Ice-climbers..

Rjukan area has a lot of good ice in all types of length and difficulties. But this year the ice condition has been very varied, and the ice were very late. Rjukan is also a bit of the history from WWII. The heavy-water factory was a very important part for the Germans to be able  get a atom-bomb.

Vemork, the heavy-water factory in Rjukan.

The ice-climbing went very good and we got a lot of hours on the ice. It takes time to get skilled, and to feel comfortable with all equipment and technique.

Goran is about to climb, and Mikael will secure. You must get everything in place, and in control..

This time we all move limits regarding technique and confidence. A lot of different type of ice and grade of difficulties..

Goran on the ice, doing a real heroic climb…

Never loose focus while securing the partner…

When it comes to tools and equipment, I can conclude that most of the ice-axes are the same. But when it comes to crampons the technical is to prefer. Also boots my experience is that the plastic boots is to prefer. They suits better, with better contact. And you can remove the inner boot for drying in the tents etc.

I prefer a plastic boot, but its up to your taste..

Mikael, the guy with know how, skills and always a word to develop you..

On the ice wall…

And now over to same news: There is a new kitchen build at Kebnekaise mountain station. And Sylarnas mountain station got environmentally friendly sewage treatment. There will also be a restaurant soon, as a complement to catering there is today. (Mats Almlofs thoughts comes to relative) .

Sylarnas mountain station in the winter..

This month I will test a tactical jacket. In the service they don’t use technical jackets. They use tactical jackets instead. So I will test the Mandra night jacket from Mil-Tec.

Mandra night jacket from Mil-Tec.

It will be very interesting to see how a tactical jacket will hold over technical Gore-Tex jacket..

This week Ed Sheeran will be the music..

And you, the best way to predict the future is to create it..

See ya on Wednesday, then it will be a chronicle about coffee..

 

 

One of the most important skills in the Mountains will be the navigation. This part you practise and train wherever you are. first of all you need to have a updated map. The trails and other parts can be changed, so it is important that the map is up to date.

you must be prepared for tough conditions..

The next thing you need is a good compass. Most of the compass today is good, but choose one with high quality.

(Illustration: Per Hardestam)

How to use the compass:

1. Put the side of the compass in the direction you want to go. 2. Turn the compass-house so the lines will be parallel with the lines in the map(The nail in the right in direction) 3. You just change the compass for the direction you want to got to. 4. the arrow shows the direction to follow.

When reading the map, which is very important, try to see it three dimension..

Try to see the map in three dimension, it will help you..

In the mountain environment it is extra difficult to navigate. It it is foggy or ”white out” of snow, just must know how to find the right direction. Here the help will be three parts: 1. A fixed compass direction. 2. Knowledge and good planning of distance. 3. The height were you are.

Always take as routine to set a fixed compass direction when you start your journey. You can put the directions of the day on a tape at the compass. Plan how long time every part of the planned distance will take, have catch up places during the navigation. Check with a altimeter, so you know exactly were you are. As a extra safety, you can check a reserve way out, if the wheatear becomes stormy or if you need to get down from high area fast. Check the map often, and take time. A mistake will maybe cost you a lot of time and effort..

I prefer to have a sighting compass, than you can have fixed direction and lock the compass with it…

See ya soon..

This weekend we Went to Alvdalen and Trangslet for ice climbing. We brought the tent to get faster access to the ice wall. With -15 degrees during the night we still slept well. And then got a amazing day of ice climbing.

Four happy guys during the ice climb in Alvdalen..

The ice climbing conditions has been questionable, due to the weather. But in Trangslet there was quite good conditions..

At least a waterfall to climb:-).

Ice is a fantastic material.

Climb and perfecting the technique and got the feeling in hands, legs and mind. Trust the gear..

Mikael in action, a guy to learn the tequiniqe from ..

Climbing, climbing, climbing…

And this weeks suggestion of training:  100 pull-ups, 400m run, 200 push-ups 400m run and at last 300 sit-ups and 400m run. Get it done as fast as you can..

The White buffalo, oh the man got a fabulous voice. something between Eddie Vedder and Everlast..

See ya soon

It was a crisp morning today. With the upcoming sun in the horizon it was magical. Somewhere inside of me a feeling, I am longing for the mountains. Get up early, put on skies or the climbing gear. A whole day of activity coming up and a anticipation of upcoming challenges.

Today I will talk about the mountaineering workout. This will involve technical and nontechnical top performance. The altitude can also be a factor to take in consideration. The cardiovascular needs, means that you performing mountaineering need to be able to carry a heavy backpack for long time and kilometres. Due to that you need to build up to at least 4-6 cardiovascular workouts/week. This workouts need to be in mountain environment or at least in hills. Off-season training need to be in the mountain as well. And if you cant that, use cross-country running, sandy-dunes, Hip and ankle strength will be build up. Use row machine, ladder-machines, cross-trainer etc. Step-training is good as well, here you can sign up for a group-training class.

The set up could be like this: Recovery <65 % of MHR(Maximum Heart Rate) Distance workout: 65-75 % of MHR Tempo 75-85 % of MHR and interval 85-95 % of MHR.

Becoming a mountaineerer, you need to have a real good workout program..Endurance..

There are many special trails in Jamtland of Sweden. One a bit forgotten one is the Issjodalen. You reach it from Valadalens mountain station. Its remains from the ice age. It is like get into a valley in the move lords of the rings. Haven’t you been there I can heartily  recommend it.

Issjodalen in Jamtland, a very special place…

And now over to some new gear:

La Sportiva has come up with a new winter shoe.

La Sportiva Tempesta GTX. Lightweight for a waterproof shoe at 11 ounces, the company will market the Tempesta to winter runners who train or race no matter the temp outside.

Fjallraven, has a new jacket, Bergtagen:

Made of partially recycled polyester and treated with a PFC-free DWR for water repellency, the Bergtagen Eco-Shell Jacket from Fjallraven lives up to its name.

And a combined tool:

 

https://ksr-video.imgix.net/projects/2069265/video-735382-h264_high.mp4

And this weeks music, enjoy:

See ya soon..

 

Many of you are going for new adventures, and challenges. If you have planning for a ski tour or a ascending of a peak or a trail running race you need to prepare. If you want to perform or get as much out of your trip, follow our new series and become a outdoor athlete..

Want to get as much out of your adventure, or just become a outdoor athlete, here you got the opportunity..

Foundation; first of all you must have a base-level. The training can be divided into three big parts. First energy giving processes. This includes anaerobic, and aerobic training. The second is strength., and technique. This includes muscle strength training and specific technique training. Of course that will depends if it skiing, climbing or trail running etc. The third are is mental training. Here you will train you mind and your focus for example. Set up a goal for your are and start to get the ground.

The start. When you have decide how much you are ready to bet for your goal. Do now we start. The first four weeks you have to start building up your oxygen uptake. Your heart rate will become a central part of your training. Start to check your resting heart rate. If you are having an infection or if you are over-trained, the rest heart rate will tell you. You also need to defined you MHR(Max Heart Rate. 210 – (0,5 x your age)) example if your weight is 40: 210 – 0,5 x 40. 210-20 = 190.

For trail running you must have a focus for aerobic conditioning training. If you have plans for high altitude running, you also need to train anaerobic  training as well. But not so much as  aerobic. Strength for the lower body, For Flexibility, not so much focus. Cross-training much focus. If you not have a high hill in the neighbourhood, you can run cross-country. Decide a direction, set the watch for a time and run. This will build you up. The mental strength needed here will be to run for a long time. Variation of training is very important as well to not increase the volume and intensively to fast.

Suggestion of heart rate while workout:

Recovery: <65% out of MHR (Maximum Heart Rate). Distance 65-75% out of MHR. Tempo: 75-85% out of MHR. Interval: 85-95% out of MHR.

Suggestion for goal 2017:

http://fjallmaraton.se/

Next week it will be a new outdoor area we look into regarding training..

And now some new gear:

 

The Colorado based Crescent moon’s new snow shoe in EVA foam will be the new product of the year 2017. For ~140 Euro it can be yours..

One of my favourite the Alpinisto from McGregory has been updated.

After five years of testing, the new updated Alpinisto is here. Now lighter, stronger and as well even more comfortable. Also with a new tool attachment witch will fit all types of ice axes. A improved ski strap and a new type of aluminium frame, this got the ability to be a number one.

And ice can be very challenging, look at this for example..

See ya soon..

A chronicle about leadership and outdoor guiding.

The society is always change-inclined. This means that we all have to adapt to that circumstance. We are now going into a more idea-driven leadership overall, and that will of course affect all areas in generally. In addition, the outdoor area as well course. What we also can see as a trend is the change of knowledge of our customer/clients. In generally the knowledge in outdoor technique is being increased for the customers, but as before, some of them will always be beginners. This will mean that it will require more knowledge and a real good physical shape as a guide to handle the large spread of knowledge. One reflection I have done related to that is: You as a guide do not need to show your knowledge, but to obtain the whole groups knowledge. To get the most out of the activity/event. (The guide of course will still be the responsible for the activity). In addition, it will become more important to provide the activity/event with something unique*). Such as animal or plant life of the area. Alternatively, the history or culture life or a new slope etc. With clients knowing more and with more skills, they expect more from a guide. Therefore, you as a guide have to analyze what area you shall focus on. From my perspective, it will be the difference between the guides and guide companies. The customer will choose outsourcer based on those criteria. The one that understands the clients need, no matter of level of knowledge or skills.

The ownership and responsibility will be another interesting area. With new expectations from the customers, this are will be more important. Everyone wants to be seen, even if you are a beginner or very experienced. A way of getting everyone satisfied, you can use the whole group’s knowledge. Nevertheless, do not forgot the beginners. They need the attention as well. A guide who get the eight sense, and can catch that, she or he will be a well hired guide.

Drive and motivation will also be a central part of the guide’s leadership. With all the new requirements from the Customer/clients. This will be the arbitration between the guiding company and guides. The ones that can catch the unique*) areas and get the client to be seen, they will take the lead of the market. Nevertheless, the guides still need to develop the experience of being a good listener and continually learning and reflecting.

Summing up, you must find a way to be unique. Understand the composition of the group. Use the group’s knowledge, and listen to and see all the clients. Keep a high physical level, and build up your confidence. Train your ability overall due to that the client knowledge increase all the time. And always always keep the focus on to get the clients development and experience second (safety first)

a well balanced guide with physical and mental strength, with a focus for how to get the clients satisfied and with the safety in focus..

*) I will not give you the whole answer of what that is, because that is the key for the future market. Therefore, if you interested in that you have to contact meJ however, for example it can be: Secure to NOT have any dependency. Be confident in yourself. Reflect over “what is being unique” in the guide business. Find and defined your values.

Ulf Bergman (Photo Bjorn Dahlgren)

See ya soon..

A new year full of opportunities. The first week has started at a furious pace. With 10 workouts I am on track. My sledge-dag has been working in snow and with me with skies, and he is a talent.

This year will be interesting. We will continue with the Via Ferrata service at Skuleberget. www.viaferrata.se There will also be a tour to Chamonix, A ice climbing session and a ski tour to Are in February. And on Wednesday there will be a chronicle..

This weeks workout will be deadlift:

Perfect for climbing, hiking etc. this will build you up..

See ya soon..

 

So here we are, 2016 is about to end and a new 2017 is waiting for coming up..

A new year with new challenges.

A 2016 with a lot of good challenges and experiences. I will conclude them in a chronicle:

All terrain training. This year I’ve been training a lot outside. Strength endurance and all different type. real good. Body and brain, you must combine the training with the two parts. If not you will fail,

Chamonix, this year it was a longer period of guiding. Very nice developing and fun. Nothing can compares to Chamonix. Haven’t you been there, Do a realistic planning. It is a must. Plan, and stick to it. It is important to have a realistic plan and targets. Small targets for every day that force you to the head target. , Evolve Fitness, the most important with Evolve is note the extreme good programming. Is the community of the most dedicated and motivational people., Fit, it is easier to keep the fitness, then loose it and start again and again and again..Good habits, do small changes. This will help you to reach your targets.,

Helags, this year it has been to tours to Helags mountain station. The first one on skies, with a real tough weather. Good for the experience of working hard in cold weather. Ice climbing, it is challenging and demands strength and tequiniqe as well as endurance. ,Joy, secure that the workout will be varied, this will make it more fun and joyful. Kettle bells, one of the best and most varied training equipment you can use.  ,Lunndörren, one of the most interesting place in the Swedish mountains. It can be smooth as silk, or hard as granite.

Military tests, this year I’ve been testing a lot of the special forces units tests.  It has been interesting and good to know my own standard.  North Face L5 the new summit series is a very good mountaineering product.  ,Opportunities, they will not come. You got to see them everywhere.  ,Positive mind, this is always the best way to go.,Question your self, am I living the life I want? If not start the way to get it, with small step you will get there. Read, books articles and on the web. You have to get inspired and get knowledge.,Stop find excuses, Tough Viking, first time for the race. The team on a second place and 108 individual, that ok,U,Via ferrata, a couple of times this year at Skuleberget, Real good organized with top level service. Early morning leaving from Stockholm by car, arrival at 10.15 and then two or three tracks on the mountain, great.Wanting more, I want to explore more, and  Lappland would be great. ,X-country running, I’ve been running from Tossåsen-Lunndörren this year. I want to find out if there is any more place I haven’t been starting from in the Jämtland mountains. ,Yellow, the best colour for visibility in the mountain environments ,Zee you soon

A happy new year to all of you! Lets make 2017 to the best of all adventure years..

 

 

 

The 24th of December and today the calendar ends..

I wish you all a Merry Christmas.

The content of the calendar has as always been the same as the blog overall. The trinity of leadership, workout and outdoor. To build a inner with a clear compass direction and a armoured body combined with a hugh  outdoor experience.

And the most important be inspiring…

The best guide is the one inspire, challenge and at the sometime  bear the clients best in his/hers mind…

See ya..

 

Today we open door 23, if you will learn more about the samis we will see..

Today will be a hymn for the Samis.

We are all borrowing the free land of the mountains. The natives understand that better then anyone of us. In the samis life the reindeer is the centre. The need of the reindeer every time comes first. A ordinary day for reindeer herd starts early with lunch in the nature and ends late evening. After midsummer it is time for the calf’s to get marked.  Late summer it is time for the reindeer slaughter. In early September when all is prepared the slaughter can begin. It can also be one in October as well. The meat will be frozen, salted or dried. It will also be delivered to the stores for us other to by and eat it.

In Sweden there are about 30-35000 samis, and I can find it hard that we not can compromise and live side by side.

A mountain environment without reindeers wouldn’t be a real mountain environment. Today there are 250 000-275 000 reindeers in Sweden.

And don’t forget, the first mountin guides was the samis..

The first Mountain guides was the samis, we should not forget..

See ya tomorrow..