20th of December and about forgotten and unknown heroes and archetypes..

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Today it will be about people that are role models for me. First we have to look into the history books. Gillis Billing, a important person in Swedish climbing.

The Swedish climbers in the early 20th century consisted of a small adventure adventure that made Alpine climbs and topsides on skis. Sometimes they climbed on rocks, but only as training in front of the large, snow-capped mountains. The one who secured had no robe belay, but completely pulled the Sonica hemp over his shoulders, ready to resist.

For Gillis Billing the workout and gymnastic exercise was a vital part of his life..

We are heading back to 1936 and the beginning of Gillis Billing’s climbing course. Then he went the first climbing course in Sweden, held in Sylarna under Emmerich Rossipal’s leadership. That same year he visited Vårbyberget on the outskirts of Stockholm when looking for suitable training mountains.

Gillis back pack ready for new alpine adventure..

Today, the mountain is more known as Häggsta. Gillis was perhaps not the first climber on the mountain, but he opened a pair of the first joints and made the mountain known among the climbers of the past.

In 1937 Gillis went to Kebnekaise and rose up for Baumann’s wall, a climb he dreamed of since he was a child. Ewa Hellström-Boström describes how he ”climbed the piece by piece” past difficult roads without being sure to move on. Then he climbed the same way down in 40 minutes.

 Another Swedish adventurer which is not so known is Janne Corax.
One of our great adventurer…
In 2003, he made the first bicycle value through the roadless Chang Tang plateau. The plateau is uninhabited and lies at a height of 5,000 meters in northern Tibet. He carried out the expedition with his former partner Nadine Saulnier. She also became the first woman to have crossed the plateau at all times.  The expedition resulted in a thirty-one episode in the National Geographics series Into The Unknown. The section was called Too Tired. Janne Corax has been the first with several climbs in Tibet
On June 26, 2007 he and Nadine Saulnier King Oskars fjord traveled 6323 m. It is a distant mountain in Tibet reached after 28 days of cycling through the wilderness. The mountain got its Swedish name of the detective Sven Hedin. (as a matter of fact me and Johan Skiold was discussing of climb the King Oscars mountain at the time, petty we didn’t do it)
The third one will be Stefan Glowacz, born in Germany in Bavaria in 1965.
I see rock climbing not just as sport, but a way of life. Sometimes I can just sit at the bottom of a cliff, look around and feel good. I don’t even have to climb.
In 1994, Glowacz climbed ”The Emperor’s New Clothes” (X+/8b+/5.14a), elected the hardest route in the Alps for at least 9 years
First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada
In 2001, he succeeded to be the first in fulfilling the trilogy of hardest multipitch routes of the Alps (all established in 1994), including Thomas Huber’s ”End of Silence” (X/8b/5.13d) near Berchtesgaden and Beat Kammerlander’s ”Silbergeier” (”Silver Vulture”) (X/8b/5.13d) in Rätikonn.
He also have done trips to Baffin Island, with climbing activities..
Quite steep climbing or…
Do not walk in the sleep,it will result in problem…
See ya tomorrow..

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  1. Those early climbers were tought people?
    Big Wall climbing is unfortunately something that have been missed(too old now), just think…sleeping on a portaledge 500m up the wall, what an adventure…

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