So now we got a new year, with a lot of new options. So what is your 2023 going to mean to you? My new focus this year will be ” new thoughts” I going to challenge myself by trying to defy and provoke my values etc. And I am already on track…This is all about self-awareness, Everyone got self-awareness, but often only to the level where it is comfortable wear. So my target will be to move that a bit further this year.
This weekend I was on a trip to Älvdalen for a Ice-climbing session. When we left our accommodation in the morning, tension was in the air. How would the ice look like.
But after gearing up and and approaching to the ice we find the ice really nice. At the first minutes we heard the water flow, and got a bit worried for that the would be covered by water. But it has grown fine and was bigger than ever before. So we started to place the top anchor, and soon we where rappelling down for the first climb of the season. A good start of the season with a lots of climbs. So now we are ion track:-).
And now over to some fact about outdoor stoves. First of all when it comes to gas there is three kind of sizes; 100g, 230g and 450g. But for how long will they last? This is a bit tricky question but here you get a suggested way to estimate. The 100g last for boiling ~10L, 230g last for ~20L and the 450g last for ~40L. And you normally boil 0,5L for the food etc. for every meal. So now you can calculate how much gas you need for your trip. If you use a stove with the heat exchanger it will increase the result to 20,30 and 60L instead. So to the main question what stove is the best? This is not an easy question. It is a bit complex. What normally will be the suggestion is the compact stove such as Jetboil or Primus Lite plus stove. I have done a test and the Jetboil is a bit faster than the others on the market. I also use MSR pocket rocket, and really like it. But if you need to melt snow, and in high altitude a multifuel such as Primus Omni lite or MSR XGK ex.
Today it will be about mountain weather and more specific about mountain winds. Early morning and a sunny day. The weather service has announced that it is a class one warning over the mountains. I cant see it because the sun is shining and the wind is calm. So we put on the skis and start our trip towards Helags mountain station. After six kilometers the shit hits the fan. We got wind and snow from ahead, and it begun to get cold. This is how it normally looks like in the mountains. So now I will show you a bit more of how wind arises and occurs in highland terrain. it is based on the image below.
A nice day in the mountains, the sun is shining and its nice. But the weather can suddenly changes and then it is good to keep an eye on the wind’s effect on weather and trail conditions and possible protection, bivouacking. So let’s begin with winds in valleys in the mountains.
Winds in walleyes in the mountains. The winds in a Walley means they have to pass a narrow passages. This means it will be affected of the venturi effect. This means that (see picture and no1.) the wind due to the venturi effect in combination with the air pressure will increase the wind speed from 10 m/s up to 17 m/s. And it will of course have very different impact in which direction you are going.
The next phenomena will be the corner effect. This can be comparable to the effect you probably have experienced at the sea, when you pass a corner the wind will affect you. It will follows the terrain and will be extra strong in the corner. (Helags mountain is a good example of his).
If there is a wind in the top of the mountains and you have winds going upwards as you can se in picture 3, you got a so called corkscrew effect. This will have a certain effect for the air traffic in the mountains.
You also got an effect like a foen(blow) wind.(se figure 4 in the picture) You have a inversion up to the first level, and little wind. You got hot air flowing upside. When it passe a high peak the air will fall down and it will be warm down below. In 2016 the temperature in January was measured to 14,4 Celsius.
When the wind blows straight towards a mountain, you can get a so called blocking effect. If the air cant go over a big mountain the air will accumulate and related to the pressure gradient of the air pressure the air will go on to that side where the pressure is lowest. (fig. 2a) If it is a lower mountain the wind can pass over it.(fig. 2b)
A dangerous situation can appear when there have been a high pressure under a longer time with cold temperature. This in combination with stagnant air, and a air pressure gradient. This will make the wind to increase. A significant sign of this is snow drift on the peaks. This will be a clear warning sign if you are in the mountains. In the foot of the mountains the weather can be nice and no winds, but you can see plumes or snow drift on the tops. This is called katabatic winds and was one of the Cause of the Anaris incident.
Ok, so what will be the conclusion out of all of this?
First of all listen and check the weather report, ask locals about how the weather has been last week. If you are going to pass a valley, check the wind direction. It can be a wind tunnel trap. If it is windy avoid ”corners” where the wind can get different directions. If you have the wind from back and you moving to a high mountain, the wind can in a sudden turn fast near the foot of the mountain(the blocking effect) And if it has been a high pressure with real cold weather for a longer period and you see plums/snow smoke at the peaks, it can be real windy at the foot of a mountain with raging winds down. This meaning to avoid valleys, streams and furrows where the wind can gain extra speed. And especially don’t build bivouacs or emergency shelter in that type of area. And maybe most important of all, normally the wind under the three line don’t get over 10m/s which means that if its possible always have a evacuation way downwards to the tree line…And don’t forget that it will blow 30-50% more on the peaks comparing to the free atmosphere around it.
This week I have reviewed the Snigel Field Binder. This is the perfect travel partner for administration. Maps, tickets etc. It has two big pockets for maps, and a lot of pockets for other stuff. A holder for light and also a lot of holder for pens. I really like this, but it will only get NNNN(+) the reason for not get a 5 is that it is to expensive. It cos about 86 Euro (~850:-)
In 2022 it has been 72 blogs for all you who have read them:-) Sometimes I feel I write about the same, but comparing to ex. Utemagasinet with 12 releases I don’t think I have to worry…Hope you all have enjoy it:-)
A Arvidsjaur, This year started with a winter tour above the artic circle. This is what I called winter….
B Bydalen, this place has got its own place in my outdoor heart. Easy to access, and nice at winter as well as the summer. The three summit challenge is recommended.
C Chaos, become friend with the chaos is my most important learning this year. If you end up in a chaotic situation, think -become friend with the chaos and understand that is the art of control of it…
D Develop, this is what I have done the whole year. Thanks to the IML I have learned a lot of new stuff, areas and knowledge…
E Eva graven, a new acquaintance. This area in Funäsfjällen is really nice and a natural phenomenon.
F Funäsdalen, this place grows for every visit. Everything is so accessible, it is close to everything here. And even with its own coffee roastery.
G Ghosts, The story from Vildmarksvägen and our own story from Getvalens wind-shelter…
H Headlamp, The Silva trail speed 5R did really lived up to its description. With the Ultra trail running challenge I got a an real hard core test of it -and it past, for sure…
I Intuition this is the most important quality to develop. Improve this ability and you will become a better outdoorer.
J Judgement, this is also one of the most important qualification you need to improve. This by working and understand yourself….
K Katterjokk, this place is perfect for mountain adventure. Just step off the train and you can begin immediately. Or why not stay a night at the tourist station. The small village also got its own supermarket and restaurant…And if you want to ski off-pist/pist the lift towards the Riksgransen starts here….
L Lodges, there are so many nice lodges. Just just have to take the night train from Stockholm and you can go by interrail and jump on and off in the Jamtland region. My favorite will be Enaforsholm Mountain lodge…
M Mammut, this brand is expensive but always got high quality. My Mammut base-jump pants is used every day. A really nice pant…
N Navigation, work on it the whole time. This is both secure you got to the right spot as well as leadership. With high skills here you can focusing on your group instead of the map.
O Oviksfjällen, The whole are with Gräftåvallen, Bydalen and Höglekardalen is so nice. Book a cabin and you will have the adventure just out of the door…
P Park-Nisse, The stor of him was fantastic. Read about him at the blog from 29th of may…
Q From now I can call myself a qualified International Mountain Leader. After 5 years of work, from my side, I am there…
R Rjukan, after a couple of years of ice.-climbing we went to Rjukan during the summer. And it still deliver. So nice to see it in summer time.
S Skuleberget, I will never get tired of this mountain. Even tough I’ve been there so many times, I still discover new perspective. And it is a view that can’t be bought…
T Tänndalen, Here the trails is so easy to access, the view is so nice. The cross-country skiing is always nice. Storskarven towards Svalåtjärn is so nice..
U Now Sweden is a part of UIMLA, and we got the first International Mountain Leaders trained and assessed in Sweden by SFLO.
V Via Ferrata, it’s always a nice challenge to do the Via Ferrata. If you haven’t try it is time…
W Workout, This year I have hiked 7500km, and fighting etc. So a really good year of workout.
X X-cross country running, the Ultimate trail running competition was a new experience. 8+8+8km. Interesting and you have to have a tactic plan for doing it…
Y Year, a fantastic year with a lot of time in the mountains…
Z Zoons, the west of Jämtland is so nice…
Å Ånnfjället, this peak have been a signum for the Funäsfjällen. A really perfect tour for everyone..
Ä Älvdalen, Ice climbing here we go. When the river release the smoke of cold, and the ice walls is ready to climb, we go there for sure…
Ö Östersund, Before the tour to Enafors I stayed in Östersund. This is a nice place to be and to start the adventure journey from…I think I could live here😊
See ya tomorrow, it is Sunday tomorrow and you get a bonus blog due to that:-) Don’t miss it, it will be about mountain weather especially about winds…
Today we open door twenty four, and for this year it will be no more. I hope some of you something new had learned, then my a satisfaction I have earned. I wish you all a merry X-mas. Today I will embrace you to become a better you. So here you got some ideas: Always think before you talk, get a seconds of re-think before your answers. Embrace changes, strive for trying new thing, that Thai restaurant for example. Be grateful, before you sleep think about what the day have give you. Do the right thing, you know the difference between wrong and right. Use your strength, use your strength and don’t waste them away. Address your weaknesses, be aware of them and work with them. Take care of yourself, Eat good food, sleep enough, exercise etc. Be a hero, help others. Be yourself, you’ll be more focused, build courage, establish your own identity, and be able to define your values and beliefs.
With this words I close the calendar for this year. See you at new year 31st of December…
The Vildmarksvägen is the highest paved road in Sweden. It goes over the Stekenjokks plateau between Lapland and Jämtland. It is a unforgettable mountain adventure in about 500 kilometers. It starts in Strömsund in the south and end up in Vilhelmina in north.
So where shall I start in north or in the south. First of all it is important to know that the road is closed during the winter. (it is normally 6th of June to 15th of October) open And it is a special occasion to drive it just when it opens in the spring. Then the snowbanks will be really high. But normally the suggestion is to drive it clockwise. Due to the fact that the road passes two different community’s you have to check the regulations. Sometimes is forbidden to stop the car in some areas due to the nature and reindeer husbandry. But if you chose to go there from mid June, there will be no restrictions.
So how long will it take? Well if is just the Stekenjokk plateau you want to visit you do it all within 1-2 days. But due to is so much to visit and discover I suggest at least four days. So what to visit during the adventure then? Hällingsåfallet is worth a visit. Park 2K from the waterfall, and you will pass a nice canyon before you reach the waterfall. The Stekenjokk Plateau is in its self a first choice. You got the feeling you are in Norway, Klimpfjäll is a nice place in the area. I also recommend the Bjurälvens nature reserve. The Bjurälven nature reserve has a very unique environment and is really recommended for those who are interested in nature and like to hike. An underground river has contributed to the creation of the karst landscape, a name given to the special landscape that forms on limestone mountains with completely or partially underground watercourses. Bjurälven’s water in combination with the carbon dioxide of the air has dissolved the limestone so that caves, underground channels and other peculiar rock formations have formed. Some highlights are Dolinsjön, Blinda dalen and the Colosseum. The walk around is a total of 12 kilometers.
A job is just a job…or…? I grow up with the values that you always shall do your best. This meaning that you keep your promises and stick to your tasks until they are done. For me a job is not just a job, its a lifestyle. When I became a officer in the army it was even more tangible. The esprit de corps was always crucial and present. This made and make some people even today jealously, because they don’t understand it at will be afraid of its power. In an organization that good ethics decision prevails it ill not be the case. It will just be a strength. And if you ever have felt it I imagine you will be afraid of its power. But it is build up I know that you will cover my back when I need it. the new generation is so far away from those thought and values. Looking in to them selves as Alexander the great. The sun is turning around me. At the slightest resistance, the drop it, and pointed out other circumstances instead of looking introvert were they can find the real reason. I was learned ”To conform to the requirements of joint responsibility” our society have lost that. Me is more important than us, and it is always someone or something else problem. No you have to start digging here at the spot you are standing at.
This story begins in the late 90s. At the time I was in the service and Capt. in the Swedish army. The salary for a officer at this time was nothing to brag about. I have to take extra job at the weekend for being able to buy a pair of McKinley hiking boots at Intersport. So when I got a scholarship from the army for a well done work with training the SWE UN unit for Bosnia among other contributions in field exercise’s, I was excited to go for a mountain tour.
Top of Galdhöpiggen….
Said and done, one early morning I was sitting on the bus from Stockholm towards Oslo. Almost eight hours later I was sitting on a train bound for Otta. I have booked a cheap hostel in Otta where I was supposed to stay. Three and a half hours later I was checking in at a small familiar hostel in the small Norwegian village. Early next morning I entered the bus bound for Lom and there I have to change to another bus for Juvasshytta. When the buss arrived I walked around the mountain station for a while, when I realized that you must buy a ticket for rope up in a rope-team. With quick steps I went to the booking office. When it was my turn I asked to get a ticket. The women in the ticket desk looked up and told me that the ticket for 10 a clock rope team was sold out. So I could by one for the 11 clock tour. I calculated fast that it would be to late for caching the bus bound for Lom, further towards Otta. I looked at the women in the office and told her that I have got from Sweden just for this occasion, and that it would be to late for my bus back, if I would take the late tour. She looked at my desperate eyes, and whispered: -Ok, you will get a ticket for the 10 tour. I thanked here so much and went up for roping up. At this time it was Sherpas from Nepal leasing the rope-teams.
Normal route towards Galdhöpiggen (from Juvasshytta)
We roped up and went out on the glacier Stygge-brean (Bad-glacier). After we entered the bergsground we could chose our own pace. I quickly ascend towards the top. After just a half an hour I reached the top in fantastic weather condition (think about how many days it is perfect weather on a mountain).
Rope-team bound for the peak of Galdhöpiggen, sometimes it can be crowded…
After enjoying the view I started my descend. Soon I was back on the bergsground and back towards Juvasshytta. Just 20 minutes before the bus was leaving I was back. In the afternoon I was back in Otta and could have a nice dinner a refection over that I have been up on the highest peak in the Nordics. Early the next morning I was back on the train towards Oslo again. When passing Lillehammer, the locomotive driver miss to stop so we had to reverse the train back to Lillehammer platform:-). 12 hours later I was back home in Stockholm again. There was not much reserve in that planning but I reached the top and everything went very smooth. So it has been a real special experience you can imagine…
Todays topic will be the outdoor hygiene. What is this and what does it mean. If we go back to the C in ”COLD” = clean, it will be the same here. You have to take care of your own hygiene. This meaning you have to be ”clean” for avoiding injures and infections and deices etc. It is also important for the overall well-being. In 1989 I ran the Fjällräven extreme marathon at Björkliden, and when we reach the night camp we pitched the tent. After 12 hours mountain running, we decided to take a bath in Loktajavri. The other competitors looking at us as we were lunatics. But it was a great feeling, and for sure we slept better then any one at the camp. And that’s what is all about, you feel so much better with a good hygiene. So number one, wash your hands. This will keep the bacterizes away. Next thing to check will be the feet’s. Dry feet – means happy feet. Check for blisters and wounds. Wash them and anoint them. Now it is time to brush your teeth and wash your face.
Now you also can check if you have got any tick. It is also important that you dish the cooking and eat equipment. Bring alcogel for hand hygiene or wipes.
For a mountaineerer the mountains will be a crucial thing. This meaning that we must take in consideration to keep the sustainability in our mind all time. Mountain regions cover approximately a quarter of the Earth’s land surface, although the exact percentage depends on criteria used to define them. The rain and snow that fall in mountains eventually move downstream and provide water for millions of people. China and India, the two most populous countries in the world, depend on water supply from the Himalaya and Tibetan Plateau, and in arid regions, such as the western USA, the mountain ranges are islands of critical water supply. There is increasing evidence that the effects of global warming and climate change are often enhanced in high mountains so the need to understand why has become critical.
Elevation-dependent warming (EDW) is the phenomenon whereby the rates of warming depend on elevation (or height above sea-level). This means that areas high up may be warming faster or slower than areas immediately above or below. When moving up a mountain, you may notice that the vegetation and landscape tend to change with height – you may start with farmland and areas where people live, then forests thinning to alpine meadows, and finally snow and ice.
There is also increasing evidence that mountain precipitation (which is caused specifically by rising air up mountain slopes) is not as enhanced as it was in the past. Even though in a warmer world the hydrological cycle is predicted to speed up, leading to increased evaporation and episodes of more intense precipitation, this change appears to be most marked in lowland areas and less evident in mountains so far. Therefore, although precipitation is increasing in many mountains, it is not increasing as fast as would be expected given a warmer atmosphere.
Together these changes in temperature and precipitation (there is also a change from snow to rain) have been detrimental for snow, ice, and glaciers with nearly all mountain glaciers receding around the world. This has accelerated in many regions in the past 20 to 30 years. There has also been an uphill migration of climate zones, causing many species and their associated habitats to move upslope with it. Eventually, this could lead to mass extinction events on the top of isolated peaks where there is no longer mountain to move up. Most winter tourism in mountains is dependent on snow, and the skiing industry will see major negative impacts. Even in areas where skiing is not the major activity, the presence of snow and ice can enhance tourism, such as on Kilimanjaro in Tanzania where people climb the mountain in part to see the glaciers and gleaming snows at the summit. Finally, when snow is replaced by rain, which is sometimes heavy, mountain flash-flooding and associated hazards such as landslides may become more frequent in many regions. So this is what it can be like in the near future…So we all got a responsible to take our environment…
One of the earlier topics was about being mentality prepared for take care of incidents. Today you will have focus for more practical skills. First of all you need to prepare your own first aid kit. I suggest you buy a store case so you know how to organize it. It shall also be flexible so you can add or remove or change the content depending of your activities.
When it comes to more practical parts you need to have a lot of phantasy for solving field challenges due to first aid. I f you need a stretcher, you can use your rope like this:
I also recommend to bring some kind of emergency light. This will help you to get found if its dark and bad visibility..
Another thing that will be a good knowledge is how to handle a rescue evacuation with a helicopter. First you shall chose a so flat area as possible to land on. Mark it out if possible. Take all you gear away so it can get loos in the wind from the helicopter. Stand up with your hand like a Y. This means you will Marshall the helicopter.
Today it is the 18th of December and it will be about the IML equipment. In the standard and of course in the training to become a International Mountain Leader you use equipment in situation when you will end up in steep ground.
The kettlebell is a symbol for the responsibility you got as an IML…
As a International Mountain Leader you use a 30m rope, slings and carabiners in occasions of steep ground. You get trained and got skills for using this equipment in the right way. You also shall bring some kind of satellite communication such as Garmin InReach or for example a Spot Tracker or Zoleo. As I have mention before you get a real good training, but you also need to live up to the standard.
When you got the certification, well it is then it all starts. Now you got a lot of responsibility and a reputation of UIMLA standard and code of conduct to live up to…
Today I also got two suggestion of Christmas gift you can wish for from Santa… First a pair of pants from Mammut, the Courmayeur SO pant. This is a real mountaineering pant. Perfect for us in hiking, climbing. It is water repellent, and got reinforcement with double-weaver material on the knee, leg end and the back. It got adjustable waistband and is a real good mountaineering pant. The price ~165 Euro.
This coffee pot is my next suggestion, the Hällmark 0,75L coffee pot. Made in stainless steel, with just a weight of 200g this little fellow will be your best friend at your next adventure. Enjoy the cooking coffee, and you will be satisfied…The price 13.5 Euro:-)