Today I can state were in the last week of September. Looking back to a summer with a lot o mountain adventure, I can be really pleased. A tour to Helags, one to Oviksfjällen, another to Storulvån and one to Lunndörrsfjällen. That a great summery of this summer. Honestly I miss the Alps, but you cant get it all…There’s a lot going on at the moment and that is something I like! Upcoming weekend we going to have a Summer assessment in Offerdalsfjällen, this with six aspirants for the IML certification. My thoughts about that is; how to become openminded and impartial…Well I think it starts with love, compassion, joy and equanimity. By being clear with the expectations I think were on the way.
It will be really nice to get to the Offerdalsfjällen again. This area is a hidden pearl. So I am looking forward to it. It is always also interesting with the examination of new guides.
When it comes to workout I got my self a new target; 80st Push-ups, 80st. sit-ups(both part must be done within 120 S each) 15 pull-ups, 1 mile (1,6km) run under 7 minutes, 1000m clothes swim within 20 minutes and end it up with 19,3km with a backpack with a load of 20,4kg maximum of 180minutes…all in one day in a row…I will give you update how its going ahead…
This week the blog will contain three parts. I will start with the season thoughts. The autumn is a good time for manifest the knowledge and skills you got, and also put some thought about what to develop. So lets start with some thought here; your thought create your reality, so choose them wisely. The universe is conspiring in your favor. believe it, and it will manifest. Thoughts become things, if you see it in your mind, you will hold it in your hand. The first step to manifest your dreams is to believe they are possible. Manifestation is not about wishing, it’s about taking inspired action towards your goals. Thinking and looking inside rather than outside…
Spending the weekend in Lunndörrs mountains was terrific. We started the tour from Vålådalens mountain station towards the Lill stensdals mountain, and continuing parallelly with the Smällhögarna towards Vålåstugan mountain hut. Cooking dinner (rein deer filet) and enjoying the evening in the mountains. Early next day we had some breakfast and then at 07.40 we where on the track again. This day the target was Lunndörren mountain hut. With Gråsjöfjället and Trondfjället next to us the hike was really nice. After passing the bridge over Vålån the trail follow’s a ridge with a magnificent view. Soon we got the Lunndörrs mountain hut in our view, and we could have a few minutes of rest. Eager to look into the Lunndörs valley, we where soon on the go again. The pass was: as always tremendous and we went back to the cabin for making dinner. After the dinner we enjoyed the sauna and a bath in the Lunndörrs-tjärn. Early Sunday morning we wnt back to Våldalens Mountain station, with the last days hikes in the view. And as always I left the area with a feeling of melancholia. But soon I will be in the mountain again so no worries.
At last it will be an accurate review of the Lundhags Padje 45L Backpack. This is as I said before, a real stripped model. But from my point of view it is a working machine built for heavy duty. With its aluminum frame you can load it heavy. Be carful with fit in the back, and you will be secure. As it is stripped it just got one pocket. That is fine by me, but it could have been a bit larger though. The price of ~192 Euro is a bit to high. But if you can get discount somewhere buy it , you will like it. You will find it hard to ”overload” it.
Three days ahead, it is time for a mountain journey again. This time it will be in the Vålådalen area. This trails are mostly located below the three line, but close to the mountains. So it is a very nice area. Last time the media has been holding focus of the situation in Jämtland and the discussion about it it will affect other areas, such as Kebnekaise for example. Up there STF has given the information that they don’t have the same problem. It is a much bigger area and they have already steer it up with pre-booking and so on to the cabins. But what will be my reflection now a week later…It will affect me in the way that it now can be a little longer tours. There is a plan in my mind, so it might be a nice one…This week has a been messy. A lot at work, a lot in the non-profit association among others. And all thinking about all in the mountain and others at the moment take more energy than it gives. So need to slow down. I’m only human…
So now it is a fact, that the mountain tourism in the western part of Jämtland will be affected due to the lease agreement between the county government and the Swedish Tourist association. I will split this issue into three parts. First the history.
The last 130 years the Swedish Tourist Association have been having mountain huts and trails between them in this area. At the same time the Sámi have conducted reindeer husbandry in the area. There have been occasional discussions and resistance between the parties, but the business has flown on. The lease agreement has been continued to apply in the meantime. This lease agreement was to be renegotiate in the end of 2023. In the beginning of this year the Swedish Tourist Association tried to start a dialogue with the Amis with limited success.
The second part will be the facts: The Swedish Tourist Association has have focus in guest night at the cabins and mountain stations. The Sami’s has during of couple of years spoken about how the reindeers has been affected of the increased activities such as ski kiting and mountain biking and also the increased number of visitors. The services at the mountain stations has been improved and got a higher status. The Swedish Tourist Association has not been in dialogue with the Sami’s in the area for a long time. Also the Girjas verdict also have in impact in this issue as well. The result of all of this has been that the Swedish Tourist Association has to adept to much of the Sami’s opinions. So the opening times and also the services at the mountain stations and cabins has been affected from my point of view a lot.
The third part, my feelings and opinion: First of all I think the STF has failed here. This due to be to slow at the ball. The greedy of increasing the guest night, has now come to a payback time. It should have been much better to include the Sami’s much earlier. This is of course good for the area, and also from a guide point. The need of guides will now increase. People with less skills need a guide, and also to find other areas when this is fully booked. And again the cabins and mountain stations will be filled with steam from the boiling pots. And also the evenings big contest of which company cooks the best food…And I also think that the “real” mountain people will survival and like this decision in the end. We all love the mountains, don’t we?
I also have continue the review of the Lunhags Padje 45L back pack. With its just 1090g it is a light and stripped one. This means there is just one pocket,
so I have supplemented mine with two pockets at the hip belt as you can see.
It suit me fine and easy to adjust. But I am a bit concerned of the small straps.
Will they be strong enough? But it is big and I will see how much I can pack in it. The price is a bit to high due to what you got will be my opinion. But So far I really like it…
In 1978 a serious accident occurred in the Anarisfjällen with eight deaths as a result. This was the starting point for the Swedish mountain safety work. the government appointed an inquiry whose proposal was that the state should have overall responsibility for the area. And already in 1979 the Swedish Mountains safety council saw its light. One of the important findings was that the lack of leader and leadership was one out several reason for the incident. According to a government decision in 1984 the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency become responsible for coordination, training, information of mountain safety. In 2001 the council started a work with quality assurance of the training for mountain guides, and the mountain leader norm took its shape. The purpose of this work was to establish a national minimum level for commercially active guides. So the norm was set with 16 including moment, Since that time there have been few if any changes of the training. This has been discussed and lift up in the Swedish Mountain Safety Council and there has been some work with it, but we stand still at the moment. So why is this a so important issue for me personally? Well, many want to become a Mountain Leader, but few don’t understand or ignore the responsibility that follows with the role. A nice day at the Jämtlandstriangle is really nice, but guiding at Kebnekaise the south trail in dark and fog is something quite different and which you as a guide claimed to master. The guide and the guides standard is that settles the standard of mountain safety, that why its so important to me. I will never fold one inch for the mountain safety. The guides must be the role model, the knowledge of safety must be the badge of novelty for a guide. So this work will constantly going on, I never getting bored of it!
This is one of the SFLO’s most important work at the moment. This and establish the IML as a standard…
Today I will start to review a backpack from Lundhags, the new Padje Light 45. This is a backpack for gram hunters. With its 45L I thing it has good space. The weight 1.09kg so it is very light. But still got a frame of 8 mm aluminum, so it is very stable. It has the option to vary the length of back, so it can suits you right. The hip-belt is comfortable and it got a lot of ways to add equipment outside the sack. The mesh pocket brings you up to 11L more, and can be used for drying cloth if the sun is shining. At my first test i really like the frame and how the carrying system is built. There is a gap between the back and the sack, that seems to be fine, for reducing the heat. So I will come back one I got more to say…
The next gear to check is the Garmin Foretrex601. This is a military/tactical developed product from Garmin. It shall be easy to use, and will be the prefect tool to define your spot, and get you back to the starting point or to a ”way point”. It suits the arm perfect, and the buttons is easy to understand fins and use. But I will come back with more info when I have test it in the field…..
The evening start to get dark, this meaning the autumn is here. The nice thing is that the speed will go down and you can light up a candle and cozy up. Use the evening for develop your skills. What can better be than thigh knots, and refine your skills in areas that need to be developed. Or read books about the mountains. Today I will wright about mountain safety. It is crucial and very basic for us mountaineers. The first thing will be to being able to navigate with map and compass, so let us begin there. Now probably some of you say -why, is that necessary? We got the GPS. Well, if the battery is empty or if you don’t get coverage. Than what? So the compass will be your friend always…So invest in a compass you feel comfortable with, that is the first step.
Now your training can start. 1. Put the side of the compass from your starting point towards your destination point. In this example I am going from the wind shelter of Svaaletjhake towards the point height 1251. Here I need to be as precis as I can.
My next step now is to turn the compass house lines parallel with the maps lines. Important here is that the northern arrow in the compass house point towards north.
Now I got the line and i also got the direction within the compass. Now i just have to turn the compass so the needle points in the northern arrow, and I got the direction to go.
Now you also got the direction at the compass house; in this case 298. This you can memorize or writhe down, if you collides with the compass, so the position is disturbed
This was the first step to become more mountain safe. It will be continued..
Doesn’t we always strive for something? During the week, we strive for the weekend. At the weekend we strive for being able to fix and do all we have planned. And being honest, don’t we even strive for going to the mountain? Think if we strive for strive in our innermost being. Stop a bit human, be grateful for all you got. Embrace the good thing in your life, your health and your friends. By doing this I for sure can tell you that the next journey you are going to experience, it will be even better. And as Michael Kennedy said: ”I learn something every time I go into the mountains.” With the hand of your heart, isn’t that true? For me it is true…With at least two!? upcoming adventures, I am so thankful. A mountain trip every month, what can better be?
This week I cant help comet the trouble at Kebnekaise mountain station. If you don’t know what I am talking about, it is about the stomach upset that was there. I blogged about sustainability a short time ago. I think this is related to that. When you to eager to get too much people at one spot, you got this phenomena. Ok, I understand that they need to get money, but to which price? I am sorry to say, but here it has been to crowded for a long time…
”After a day of hike, everything has twice its usual value”
Friday morning I arrived at Enforsholm to provide an extra summer training for International Mountain Leader aspirants as an instructor. After getting lunch, and fixing the bed and so on I set up the equipment for the theoretical part of the training. A lecture in leadership, evacuation planning, river crossing, weather and a repetition of rope technique on steep ground. Next step was to practice the last part with steep ground technique. Then it was a fantastic three course dinner at Enaforsholm, and a short evening brief of the upcoming mini expedition.
After breakfast we was transported to Storulvån, and we was ready to start the mini expedition.
One of the team got the first target on the map, and the other has to follow or way for being able to tell me exactly the position where we were at the target. So everyone have to train there ability to count steps as well. Following the height curves as well. We also discuss how to ensure that we are in the place we think we are. Also the importance of self-confidence within the orienteering skills. Now another aspirant got the responsibility to take us to a new spot. Now we got the mission to collect something special to bring and explain at the next stop (a flower, a animal poop or something else). We also practice the semi belay set up for steep ground. After another orienteering leg it was time for setting up the base camp. Next step was a orienteering leg and also a river crossing discussion. Back to the base-camp and dinner. A night of sleep.
Day three started with a navigation leg(in another scale of map) and soon we reach a good spot for steep ground training. Here all participant got the opportunity to practice. Next step a navigation leg and at the target a workshop in emergency bivouac . We continued towards the Ulvån for a river crossing training. So step by step we talked about how, when (and when not) pass the river. How to use a rope as an extra safety. After crossing the river a couple of times we was done and started the journey towards Storulvån for a lunch and personally feedback.
Reflection; I been preparing this course for a couple of weeks, and I really like to being in the educating environment with focused and inspiring people. Learning by teaching is one of the best way of developing your self. With a high focus for a couple of week, and when its is a sudden is over, I am standing here with a melancholy emptiness, was this all? Have I doing it all right and fully? Hm. that will my feedback from the participants tell. Intensive, but with a capacity for adaption will be my own reflection.
After a tough start up in the ski slope me and the husky reached the plateau. The body has now been warm and the pulse will continuously be around 100. The first target of the day is the wind shelter at Falkfångarfjället. We follow the summer trail at first and then we turn over to the winter trail. Due to the wetness I recognize it was a wise decision. When we turn we can see the target in the far distance. Some reindeer join us on our way to the shelter, something the husky like. He strive in wrong direction the whole time…But soon we are there. With a cup of blueberry soup and a sandwich with cheese and we are ready to go again. Even if the trail is up hill its much easier now. Soon we are at the peak of Falkfångarfjället, and get rewarded with a fantastic view. I can never get used of the fabulous views I got in the mountains. It affect my soul in a humble and thankful/grateful way. I am so thankful for that. So now we just got a lot of downhill in front of us. The rest of the journey will become as a song. Soon we are back at the top of the slope again and with Drommen in our back. When looking at my watch I realized it has been over 20K and within just under 4 hours. That ok.
The next day it is time for a hike from Arådalen towards the peak of Hundshögen. After one hour drive, I am in place at the small mountain station, or mountain farm as I should have called it. This is in the middle of the Samis area. I follow the trail towards Gräftåvallen and after 2,5K I turn up heading for the peak. But the cloud is low and the sight is just a couple of meters I decided to turn. So the peak will be standing there for the next try, but this area is fantastic, and I must say I am really interested to go here in the winter. So over all this has been a real nice journey, with a cleaning of both soul and spirit…
This week I will do a review of the Lundhags Askro pant. Well, this is a pant for; long hikes in wild and challenging terrain, and will be able to handle the natures power…Says the description. So ok, with a price of 241,18 Euro I got a hugh expectation of them. This is a water repellent pant and got ”no layer”. With zipper in the both inside and outside the legs, the ventilation is good. The right leg pocket got a compartment for mobile phone. But it is in the same level as the zipper of the pocket, which result in that you don’t know if it will end up in the pocket or the compartment. So with a almost no shell, and with small design shortness and with a very high price it will be just NNN.
Now things are gathering around the question of the right to lease the land around west Jämtland. Many are those who will be affected of the result depending of what decision it will be taken. The Samis will point to the Girjas verdict, and claim the land as theirs. The locals on the other side, meaning that they having been living here for ages in many generations so the hunting and fishing should be for every one. Then we have the Swedish tourist association, that have a lot of economical interest in the tourism in the area. And we also got all the outdoor people who want to practice mountain sports in all its forms. So from that perspective it is a very complex question of course.
But is it not here all of it starts? Go back to the word sustainability…That might be the gordian knot. (den gordiska knuten) If we want to have a mountain environment that is genuine, we might need to adept the the requirements. If it should be a living countryside the locals might got the right of fishing and hunting for be able to stay in the area. And maybe the area where the reindeer will be during the calving period should be protected from external disturbance? Maybe I am wrong, but with a sustainability mindset I think it can dissolve some of the communication within the basic question…But sustainability is far more then the environmental part. It is about leadership and culture, diversity and a global thinking. I will not pointing finger, it is everyone’s choice. But with all the visible signs of the global warming I will draw my straw to the stack.