20th of December and about forgotten and unknown heroes and archetypes..

 

Today it will be about people that are role models for me. First we have to look into the history books. Gillis Billing, a important person in Swedish climbing.

The Swedish climbers in the early 20th century consisted of a small adventure adventure that made Alpine climbs and topsides on skis. Sometimes they climbed on rocks, but only as training in front of the large, snow-capped mountains. The one who secured had no robe belay, but completely pulled the Sonica hemp over his shoulders, ready to resist.

For Gillis Billing the workout and gymnastic exercise was a vital part of his life..

We are heading back to 1936 and the beginning of Gillis Billing’s climbing course. Then he went the first climbing course in Sweden, held in Sylarna under Emmerich Rossipal’s leadership. That same year he visited Vårbyberget on the outskirts of Stockholm when looking for suitable training mountains.

Gillis back pack ready for new alpine adventure..

Today, the mountain is more known as Häggsta. Gillis was perhaps not the first climber on the mountain, but he opened a pair of the first joints and made the mountain known among the climbers of the past.

In 1937 Gillis went to Kebnekaise and rose up for Baumann’s wall, a climb he dreamed of since he was a child. Ewa Hellström-Boström describes how he ”climbed the piece by piece” past difficult roads without being sure to move on. Then he climbed the same way down in 40 minutes.

 Another Swedish adventurer which is not so known is Janne Corax.
One of our great adventurer…
In 2003, he made the first bicycle value through the roadless Chang Tang plateau. The plateau is uninhabited and lies at a height of 5,000 meters in northern Tibet. He carried out the expedition with his former partner Nadine Saulnier. She also became the first woman to have crossed the plateau at all times.  The expedition resulted in a thirty-one episode in the National Geographics series Into The Unknown. The section was called Too Tired. Janne Corax has been the first with several climbs in Tibet
On June 26, 2007 he and Nadine Saulnier King Oskars fjord traveled 6323 m. It is a distant mountain in Tibet reached after 28 days of cycling through the wilderness. The mountain got its Swedish name of the detective Sven Hedin. (as a matter of fact me and Johan Skiold was discussing of climb the King Oscars mountain at the time, petty we didn’t do it)
The third one will be Stefan Glowacz, born in Germany in Bavaria in 1965.
I see rock climbing not just as sport, but a way of life. Sometimes I can just sit at the bottom of a cliff, look around and feel good. I don’t even have to climb.
In 1994, Glowacz climbed ”The Emperor’s New Clothes” (X+/8b+/5.14a), elected the hardest route in the Alps for at least 9 years
First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada
In 2001, he succeeded to be the first in fulfilling the trilogy of hardest multipitch routes of the Alps (all established in 1994), including Thomas Huber’s ”End of Silence” (X/8b/5.13d) near Berchtesgaden and Beat Kammerlander’s ”Silbergeier” (”Silver Vulture”) (X/8b/5.13d) in Rätikonn.
He also have done trips to Baffin Island, with climbing activities..
Quite steep climbing or…
Do not walk in the sleep,it will result in problem…
See ya tomorrow..

19th of December and a not so known trail in Jämtland..

We already reach the 19th door..

And today I will move to a small place in Jämtland. Vallåsen which is a small Sami village were some really awesome  trails start from. When you arrive the first place you will see is the Per-olsgården.

Per-olsgården were you can stay, before skiing or hiking to Lunndorren-Ice lake valley or to Anaris mountain cabin.

The trail begin in the pre-mountain forest, it is a nice and very relaxing path..

Just follow the trail, and go with the flow. Here you have shelter from stormy weather..

Then you can choose the train into the ice lake walley(issjödalen) and you will enter a place that feels you are in the movie Lords of the rings..

Then it is easy to follow the trail to Lunndorren. You will for syre be alone on that trail, you have to pass some snow fields on the route to the cabin..

19km later you will se the Lunndorren cabin at the side of the mountain lake.

The target of the day, the Lunndorren mountain cabin. With great probability you will be alone in the cabin. It got 12 beds, but seldom the cabin is crowded..

IMG_0200

 

And the winner of this weeks quiz is Göran K, and the price:

A holder for ice screws in the rack..

See ya tomorrow..

 

 

 

18th of December and about the Samis.

Time for the 18th door, and about Samis learning more..

The sami flag..

The sami Parliament(sv. sametinget) is an own authority.  The Sami Parliament is both a governmental authority with administrative duties and a popular-chosen Sámi parliament, with the mission of working for a living Sami culture in Sweden.

authority
The Sámi Parliament is a governmental government under the Government, with particular responsibility for language, culture and reindeer care.

The elected Parliament
The elected parliament consists of 31 members who meet in plenary three times a year. The Board is ultimately responsible for the Sami Parliament’s activities.

Reindeers.

Reindeer husbandry is a Sami nutrition, which in Sweden is reserved for the Sami, according to Sweden’s basis. The reindeer husbandry is based on ancient memories and is nothing like the Sami ”received” by the state. All running is based on the free nature of the game because the reindeer is a walking animal.

Today there are 4600 reindeer owners in Sweden. 85% of them lives in Norrbotten in the northern part of Sweden. 40% of the reindeer owner are women. In Sweden today there are 220 000-280 000 reindeers.

Tradition Bearers
The reindeer husbandry of today is mainly focused on meat production. Themed reindeer is now used mostly in tourism or for ”renrace”. Reindeer husbandry still plays a major role in the Sami culture. It is a tradition bearer with a high symbol value. Being a renter is a hard job, but it is also a lifestyle. As a renter, you are a carrier and broker of the Sami reindeer husbandry culture.

See ya tomorrow…

17th of December, about Argentina..

And today we open the 17th door, and travel back in time seven year..

For seven years ago we went to Argentina, Mendoza. The goal was to summiting Aconcagua. Four real experienced mountaineerer ready for one of the seven summits.

The whole journey started already in October. The 8th of October 2010 we went up to Enafors, Jamtland for preparation and team-building.

we meet hope on the summit of Storsnasen..(Photo Ulf Bergman)

And at the 27th of December we start the flight to Mendoza Argentina. When arriving, we started to fix all paper exercise.

Paper exercise for Aconcagua..(Photo Ulf Bergman)

The trail to basecamp II, passes the Horcones valley, some people mean it just a hard passage. But it is a really interesting nature, if you lift your eyes..

Horocones valley (Photo Ulf Bergman

The new years eve at 2010 we celebrated with descendants of Inca Indians at Plaza de Mulas.

Celebration of New years eve with descendants of Inca Indians..

The second of January 2011 at 5100m, on the way to the summit..

High level camp at 5100m level…

A very nice adventure, with a lot of experience and conclusions. One of them food. Choose food you really like, then you will eat. And you will need to eat…

Take the opportunity to get the pizza, it will help you to summiting..

Ulf Bergman at Aconcagua..The altitude got its price from the body..(Photo Henrik Lannerhjelm)

And todays question is; who wasw the first of summiting Aconcagua, and what year? At one of the picture above we are at a high camp. Which one? (at 5050m)

See ya tomorrow..

16th of december

Time for open door 16.

Bad Gastein is one of the real good areas in the alps. For skiing in Winter and hiking in the summer.

Bad Gastein, perfect in Winter or summer..

It is are that is easy to access, either with car or by air. Lots of the trails start from the centre of the Town, so for a couple of Days you dont need transportation. One of my favorites is the trail up to Graukugel.

The trail up to Graukugle is sometimes airy and challengeing..But the view from the top make it Worth it for sure..

And during the Winter it is a Mecca for good skiing, in Sport Gastein everyone got what they need for a real nice skiing holliday..

And todays X-mast gift suggestion will be a teactical jacket from Finland. A mountain Camoflage jacket.

This jacket from Finland is a perfect jacket for skiing, and the price it fine..

https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/sarma-tst-m05-snow-camo-jacket/51901

See ya later..

 

15th of december and preparation for upcoming Ice climbing adventures..

So today it is time to open the 15th door.

When it comes to Ice climbing you can get a short instruction about it here:

http://sverigesradio.se/sida/artikel.aspx?programid=1646&artikel=6091050

We who already are stacked in it, we need to get fit for the upcoming season, we can probably get for fit if we look at this one:

The core is of course primary in climbing, if you don’t have the core it will be hard to reach your goals. So here you got a suggestion for the upcoming 30 days..

And at last, don’t forget to take care of your stuff. A sharp tool will help you to get your targets and peaks:-)

Todays X-mas gift suggestion will be a hot jacket for cold days on the mountain. This one is very affordable.

https://www.decathlon.se/dunjacka-makalu-ii-id_8386813.html

See ya tomorrow..

14th of December and about Kebnekaise

The 14th of December and just 10 days to X-mas.

One of the most visit mountain areas in Sweden is of course Kebnekaise the roof of Sweden.

But there are o lot of places in the area that is easy to forget. One of them is Unna Raäita.

Unna Raita wind shelter..

And you shall also take the peak of Kebnetjåkka close to Kebnekaise mountain station.

And make the day with a real nice cup of cappuccino at Kebnekaise mountain station..

See ya tomorrow..

13th of December, the best playground..

Today we open the 13th door. And today it will be about the best city in the world.

Chamonix is the playground of the earth. Here everyone can find an adventure that suits them.

Why don’t try wingsuit from Brevent:-):

https://vimeo.com/45569466

Well it is so nice in Chamonix, the village boils of expectations and adventures, adrenaline and endorphins. But the evening at a calm restaurant at the pedestrian street is nice. Try the local food, you will be suprised of the hospitality and the tasty savoyen food.

Fondue of fromage taste very good…

Another real nice thing to do, will be the glacier walk from Aguille du Midi to Pointe Hellbronner. From France to Italy. Taste the Italian coffee is a must. The new lift building is futuristic.

Few things can be compered to the Italian coffee at Pointe Hellbronner.

Just be aware of the crevasses on the glacier trail to Ponte Hellbronner.

Aguille du midi when it is in its best shape, climbing the ridge in bad weather condition will be challenging, or what do you say Rickard and Mattias?:-)

See ya tomorrow..

 

12th of December

Today it is time for door number 12. And the topic of the day will be a bit of ice climbing and also about altitude sickness.

I dint think you have mist that I really love Ice Climbing. There are lot lots of reasons. But most of all it is the  material of ice. Its is unique every time, never the same. And you have to adept to the circumstances. It is technique, strength and a mental thing:-). Here the Swedish radio will give you a introduction of the ”creature” ice climbing..

http://sverigesradio.se/sida/artikel.aspx?programid=1646&artikel=6091050

When it comes to altitude sickness the Doctors News in Sweden explain that High altitude medicine is also an issue for Swedish primary care. Peoples traveling habit has changed, and more people travel in high altitude areas and the adventure traveling increase all the time. So the primary care need to have knowledge of the risk factors related to high altitude.

When the degree of inclination exceeds the adaptability of the body, pathological symptoms arise with the concept of altitude sickness

The level of altitude will decrease the level of oxygen:

And the affect of the human body will be different of the altitude:

The following recommendations are based primarily on guidelines from the Wilderness Medical Society (WMS). WMS, based in the United States, is a world leader in wildlife medicine and regularly publishes consensus-based guidelines.

Slow ascension is seen as the best measure to prevent altitude sickness. Recommendations differ slightly between different experts, but the majority consider that non-acclimated individuals should not climb more than 300-500 meters per day at altitudes above 3,000 meters.

The only pharmacological treatment with the highest evidence according to the degree of American College of Clinical Pharmacology is acetazolamide, which can be used both as prophylaxis and as treatment. Acetazolamide is a carbohydrate inhibitor, which, for example, induces metabolic acidosis enables faster acclimatization. It does not mask symptoms, and acetazolamide is therefore seen as a safe drug. The side effects are mainly dizziness, paraesthesia and fatigue. The prophylaxis dose is 125 mg × 2 and is recommended by WMS to people with previous altitude sickness and prior to travel where rapid ascension can not be avoided.

 And todays X-mas gift suggestion will be:
A clinometer for checking the elevation of a slope.

https://www.tindeberg.se/bca-slope-meter-1.html?___store=tindeberg_se&nosto=nosto-page-category1

https://www.tindeberg.se/produkter/utrustning/lavin-utrustning/bca-snow-study-kit-orange.html

 

A professional kit for assessing the quality of snow for avoiding avalanches.

See ya soon..

11th of December and a hidden place were you can start your journey into the mountains..

Today its time for the eleventh door, and follow a great track to Lunndorren.

There are a couple of place you can start your journey to the mountains in Jamtland. One of them is from a little and hidden place; Tossåsen. There are a small road, and just a couple of houses. You park the car, and can start your hiking directly.

After just a kilometre you follow the trail behind the small mountain lakes and can see the  fabulous Lunndörrspasset.

Here you can see two old B17 bomber planes, passing the Lunndörrspasset.

You can also go ice climbing here in the winter..

See ya tomorrow..

 

 

 

 

 

Din väg till äventyret…